
Annie Schowalter, a graduate student at UCSD, worked at Sustainable Energy Services Afghanistan (SESA) in Kabul, Afghanistan over the summer, supporting a group of women solar engineers in their business development. She shares her unique glimpses of sanctuaries, culture, and life in Kabul that will never make the news:
“Like Alice, I have found a strange wonderland on the other side of a keyhole.
In Kabul, tenacious optimism thrives within the cloistering walls of compounds, under the suffocating constraints of the Burqa, and the oppressive threat of explosive violence.
The tightly controlled security environment of the international community is equally matched for Afghans by incredibly restrictive cultural codes. In this charming country, everyone is under somebody’s lock and key.
As a western woman working for a small Afghan company, I enjoy more freedoms than most. I fall into a “third gender” category that allows me to travel amongst strictly divided male and female societies. Further, my movement is not restricted by my employer to a list of pre-approved locations. I can visit the homes of my Afghan friends, accompany my colleagues to the Bazaar, and visit the corner shop for green tea and herbal fruit shisha with Shuja.
Yet, even with these remarkable abilities I still spend the majority of my days and nights within a series of secure compounds and cars. I don’t speak to unknown Afghans, never walk to a destination (even if it is two blocks away), and I would never venture around town unaccompanied for fear of being kidnapped. Within these bounds, I have been amazed to discover a surprisingly lovely society brimming with a richness of spirit and vitality that feels more valuable that edible nourishment. It is what will bring me back to Kabul despite the threat of violence.
Samiya and I recently accompanied two of SESA’s male engineers on a data collection mission to Turquoise Mountain. Rory Stewart, of The Places In Between fame, has channeled his aristocratic connections and literary success into the creation of this NGO dedicated to conserving parts of Kabul’s old city. His organization is also providing employment to locals by reviving Afghanistan’s traditional craft economy.
Like most locales in Kabul, the entrance to the Turquoise Mountain center is unmarked. For security reasons there is no address and defining exterior features are virtually nonexistent. The weak central government means that even in Kabul infrastructure is lacking and the richest neighborhoods still have horribly rutted streets strewn with trash, raw sewage, inhabited by herds of goats and street kids. Amidst this chaos, going anywhere new in Kabul takes an order of magnitude longer. Animated cell phone conversations between your driver and a local on the other end of the line are essential. Often these exchanges are repeated more than once before you find your destination. Continue Reading »
